I became interested in the music of Central Asia in 1997 when I had the opportunity to travel by land from Lahore to Kashgar. I was struck by the different languages, foods and musical practices of those living in what is now Gilgit-Baltistan in northern Pakistan. As one ascends toward the source of the Indus river, the stark jagged mountains along the Karakoram highway give way to green meadows beyond the Kunjerab pass in China. I remember the border police, who searched our belongings invasively and walked off with some things, and I remember the marmots scampering through the tall grass. That trip lasted about a month and left me with a longing to return. In the mid 2000s, I revisited the material I had collected there when a colleague in history and I decided to coteach a course on the music and history of the silk road. But it wasn’t until 2012, when I designed a plan to conduct research on bards in Tajikistan, that I was able to return to Central Asia for a sustained period. There I began learning to perform from several musicians living in Dushanbe, including Ismoil Nazriev and Sirojiddin Juraev. I also initiated my work in the Wakhan corridor in the southeastern part of Tajikistan along the Panj river. This is the home of the Wakhis, a people who speak their own language and number about 80,000 worldwide. Part of my research has been devoted to comparing the musical practices of Wakhis in their four main countries of residence: Tajikistan, northern Afghanistan, northern Pakistan, and Xinjiang, China. I am currently preparing a monograph entitled The Nightingale’s Despair: Music and Moral Being in Greater Central Asia that considers the relationship between musicians as experienced and thoughtful human beings, and what they see themselves accomplishing through performance, as well as the various effects of such music on those who listen.
Ismoil Nazriev is a Tajik hofiz, a singer of classical Persian/Tajik poetry who accompanies himself on a long necked lute. He is from the region of Darvoz, the western gateway to the Pamir mountains in Tajikistan. His father Abdullo Nazriev was one of the notable exponents of…
Daulatsho lives at an altitude of about 10,500 feet in the remote village of Yur in the upper Wakhan of Afghanistan, several days walk from cell phone reception (and even there, the cell towers are across the river in Tajikistan), and electrified for a few hours a day with local…
Images: Xinjiang, China
Dancer at Nighclub in Kashgar
Dancing and Nagara Drumming Shadlukh Restaurant Urumchi
Ghalip Rahim Ghijak Player Kashgar
Khaliq Haji Tambur Player Kashgar
Night Market in Kashgar 2
Night Market in Kashgar
Tillahan-a Transient Musician-market in Urumchi 2
Tillahan-a Transient Musician-market in Urumchi
Uyghur Nightclub Singers
Images: Gilgit-Baltistan, Northern Pakistan
Surnai
Sky near Chilas 1997
Sky near Chilas 1997 2
Singers Chilas 1997
Sign Karakoram Highway
Rahmatullahbeg playing ghijak
Petroglyphs near Chilas 1997
Petroglyphs near Chilas 1997 3
Petroglyphs near Chilas 1997 2
Nacheez playing sitar
Karakoram Highway July 1997
Fazal Rahman Shirin Sado and Daulat Beg
Damal
Dadang Hyder Bek
Images: Samarqand, Ferghana, Kokand and Tashkent, Uzbekistan
15th c. military drum
Bazaar in Farghana 2
Bazaar in Farghana 3
Bazaar in Farghana
Calligraphy on tomb of Timur Samarqand
Ceiling
Dome shahizinda
Interior
Juma Mosque Kokand
Nan shop outside Kokand 2
Nan shop outside Kokand
Quran Tashkent
Registan interior 2
Registan interior 3
Registan interior
Registan
Rishton ceramic workshop 2
Rishton ceramic workshop
Rishton ceramic
Shahizinda 2
Shahizinda
Silk factory in Margilan 2
Silk factory in Margilan 3
Silk factory in Margilan 4
Silk factory in Margilan
Tomb of Timur in Samarqand
Tomb of Timur interior 2
Woman in bazaar of Farghana
Women selling chakka in Farghana
Images: Khiva and Bukhara, Uzbekistan
Girl at wedding in Bukhara
Khiva 2
Khiva aerial view
Khiva
Synagogue and Rabbi in Bukhara
Tolib Temirov Bukhara
Tolib Temirov
Women at wedding in Bukhara
Images: Murghob, Tajikistan
Hot Spring
Kyrgyz boys near Murghob
Milking a yak outside Murghob
Murghob 2
Murghob
Music School in Rangkul
Rangkul 2
Rangkul
Woman with Komuz outside Murghob
Yurt Interior 2
Yurt Interior
Yurt
Images: Dushanbe, Tajikistan
Abudulloh Nazriev Portrait
Dastarkhon at Ismoil Nazriev's home
Dustmurod ghijak
Eating at home of Ismoil Nazriev
Genia's flowers in Dushanbe home
Ismoil Nazriev 2015
Ismoil Nazriev tuning
Marat Aripov in film
My home in Dushanbe Genia's flowers
Nan shop, Ghani Abdullo lane
Portrait of Marat and his mother
Shauqmamad Pulodov and Qurbonsho
Sirojiddin Juraev playing dutor 2
Sirojiddin Juraev playing dutor
Sirojiddin, Khurshed and Behruz
Tuy Dushanbe 2014
Videos
šak me maẓ̌ tayin
Farhad Davlatov
Munojot
Falak bo ufarash: Folk quatrains sung by Firdaus and Hashimov